北摩尔街：纽约市的798|马街摩尔城

　　As the life-size fake 2)Holstein grazed outside Bubby’s on the corner of North Moore Street and Hudson one recent afternoon, a man in a 3)kerchief and a five-day beard was putting a fresh coat of light-blue paint on a wooden bench that usually sits on the sidewalk outside the restaurant. Working on the restaurant’s old steel loading dock, the painter might have been a performance artist riffing on a small-town springtime chore in the shadow of the street’s hulking industrial buildings. He took no notice of the smiles people flashed his way as they passed by. 4)TriBeCa is many things, but 5)bucolic is not really one of them.
　　North Moore is only four blocks long. It is the 6)quintessential TriBeCa street, paved with 7)cobblestones and lined with warehouses that have been converted into 8)posh apartments and independent stores. It extends from the 9)West Side Highway to its point-of-a-triangle intersection with West Broadway. North Moore is just south of the 10)curlicue 11)feeders to the Holland Tunnel and 12)a stone’s throw north of the World Trade Center, where construction cranes stick up like egrets catching a ride on a giraffe.
　　A bit wider than many Manhattan streets, it has a unique name (there is no South Moore) that adds to the poetry of the neighborhood: Laight, Hubert, Collister, Desbrosses, Lispenard, Walker, North Moore.
　　The other day, a cab dropped off John Gomes, an executive vice president of 13)Prudential Douglas Elliman, at One North Moore, a new six-unit 14)condominium designed to blend in with the brick facades and enormous windows. He also shares a 15)listing in the building with 16)Fredrik Eklund. TriBeCa has become one of the most 17)seductive addresses in the city, and people pay a lot to live here. Apartment 6 at One North Moore, with three bedrooms and three baths and almost 3,000 square feet of space, just sold for $5 million. A 18)penthouse unit with 2,300 square feet of terrace at Nos. 39-41 costs $21.5 million. At the homely Independence Plaza, erected in 1974 as a low-to-middle-income residential complex, even a modest two-bedroom apartment now commands upward of $5,000 a month.
　　While it is no longer the cutting-edge no-man’s-land that drew club life in the’80s, TriBeCa does manage to hang on to a 19)clandestine 20)aura. North Moore looks much as it did in the late 1800s, when manufacturing—from ice to glass—took place in the five- and six-story warehouse buildings that are so 21)coveted today. Everywhere are steel 22)loading bays, 23)shaftways, cast-iron 24)flourishes, canopies suspended with large-link chains and old signs carved in stone.
　　North Moore is also a good example of the transformed neighborhood—from industrial zone to 25)enclave of live/work artists to 26)stomping ground of the rich and famous (John F. Kennedy Jr. and his wife, Carolyn Bessette, lived at No. 20). These days, it mixes an impressive 27)stroller brigade with the workaday scenes of, for instance, a recycling truck 28)siphoning cooking oil out the backdoor of Mr. Chow’s (121 Hudson) and a 29)pediatric practice a few doors from Espasso, the Brazilian design shop at No. 38 North Moore. The tiny Smith & Mills restaurant at No. 71 looks as if it had been decorated with finds from Parisian flea markets, like 30)rickety little metal chairs and 31)frayed 32)upholstery. It shares the street with the Brandy Library, No. 25, a clubby urban place that has strict rules (“As in any library please avoid using loud and/or 33)vulgar language”).
　　There’s not really a bustle but a steady street life that’s equal parts fancy tourists, 34)well-heeled residents, waiters taking smoke breaks, New Yorkers from other parts of town, etc. The top-chef restaurants are a big draw, from Paul Liebrandt’s Corton (239 West Broadway) across the avenue from the eastern end of the street, to Andrew Carmellini’s Locanda Verde (377 Greenwich Street) at the corner of North Moore toward the western end.
　　The Greenwich Hotel, built on an old parking lot and co-owned by the unofficial mayor of TriBeCa, Robert De Niro, has become an anchor of the street, a spot for both the Mercedes dealer’s 35)power breakfast and the film producer’s extended stay in the North Moore 36)duplex suite, where the huge 37)slanting glass window gives a 38)painterly view that skims the street’s rooftops. “In the four years since opening,” said the 39)dashing and wonderfully-named Philip Truelove, general manager of the hotel, “the main difference is the movement of people. There’s a lot of life, but it’s still quiet.”
　　You could argue that residents of North Moore get more for their money. They’ve got Hook and Ladder No. 8, the iconic firehouse made famous by the 40)Ghostbusters movies. You can see 41)authentic 42)memorabilia from the first film on the interior walls when the garage door is open. Residents also have an original work by Frank Gehry, the architect who did the interiors at the 43)Issey Miyake store at the southwest corner of North Moore and Hudson; up close, the curving titanium sheets look like a study for the 44)Guggenheim in Bilbao, Spain. They’ve got Terrarium, a 2006 light sculpture by 45)Grimanesa Amorós, in the lobby at the Bayer Building at 54 North Moore. From the street, you can see it change color and effect at intervals throughout the day and night. And they have Lilac, their very own lighthouse 46)tender. A 1933 steam-engine vessel, it is docked against great big black rubber 47)bumpers on Hudson River Park’s Pier 25, which extends North Moore past beach volleyball pitches and a 48)turf playing field way out toward New Jersey. The former Coast Guard ship is now managed by the nonprofit Lilac Preservation Project and will be open a couple of afternoons every week after 49)Memorial Day for free tours, above and below deck.
　　Meanwhile, back at Bubby’s, where a plate of scrambled eggs and toast is $17, they even have stroller parking. The angled lines of the spaces have just received a fresh coat of paint.
　　最近一个下午，当“真人”大小的仿真奶牛在位于北摩尔街和哈德逊河拐角处的巴比餐馆外“吃草”时，一名五天没刮胡子、头戴方巾的男子正在给一张长木椅刷上浅蓝色的油漆。这张长木椅通常放置在餐馆外面的人行道上。这位在饭馆所在地的旧钢材装卸码头工作的油漆匠，也许是一位行为艺术家，在街道高大的工业楼宇之下做点镇上的早春杂务。他全然不去理会路人经过时向他投去的笑意。特里贝克地区包罗万象，但田园风味却与之格格不入。
　　北摩尔街只有四个街区那么长。它是特里贝克地区一条典型的街道，铺着鹅卵石的街道两旁，仓库林立。这些仓房已经被改建成豪华公寓或独个商铺。该街道从曼哈顿西区高速公路延伸至西百老汇，与后者构成一个三角点的交汇处。北摩尔街正处于荷兰隧道的一条花体支流的南部，与世界贸易中心只有一箭之遥。世界贸易中心处的吊车高高竖起，像骑在长颈鹿上的白鹭一样。
　　与许多曼哈顿的街道相比，北摩尔街更宽一些，并且拥有一个独一无二的名字（因为没有南摩尔街），这个名字也为周边地区增添了几许诗意：赖特、休伯特、科里斯特、迪斯伯罗塞斯、利斯蓬纳德、沃克和北摩尔。
　　前几天，普天寿房地产公司的执行副总裁约翰·戈麦斯从一辆出租车里下来，来到北摩尔一号——一座六单元的新公寓大楼，其砖面墙身和硕大的窗户与周围环境融为一体。这栋大楼的销售由约翰·戈麦斯和弗雷德里克·埃克隆共同代理。特里贝克地区已经成为这座城市里最诱人的地方，人们得付出高昂的代价才能入住这里。北摩尔一号的六号公寓（共三室三卫，面积约3000平方英尺）刚刚以500万美元的价格售出。而位于北摩尔街39—41号的一处有着2300平方英尺阳台的顶楼豪华公寓售价高达2150万美元。在普普通通的独立广场，那些于1974年为中低收入人群兴建的住宅楼，如今即使是最简单的两室公寓，每月的租金也得超过5000美元。
　　尽管不再是20世纪80年代那时的前卫真空地带夜店圣地，特里贝克的确拥有一种神秘的氛围。现在的北摩尔看起来仍像19世纪晚期一样。在那个时候，制造业（从制造冰块到制造玻璃）在这些五、六层高的仓房里开展，而如今这些仓房竟令人如此垂涎。钢材进料台和井道随处可见，铸铁业欣欣向荣，遮篷用大大的联接链悬挂着，老旧的标记刻在石头上。
　　北摩尔也成了街区转型的一个成功例子——从工业区到当代艺术家居住与工作的聚集地到如今富人和名人的落脚处（小约翰·肯尼迪和他的妻子卡罗琳·贝塞特曾在该街道20号居住）。如今，它夹杂着令人印象深刻的童车队场面和工作日景象，例如，一辆回收货车正在周记餐馆（哈德逊街121号）后门和一家小儿诊所吸取废弃食用油，这家小儿诊所和北摩尔街38号的一家叫埃斯帕索的巴西设计店相隔不远。街道71号处那家小小的史密斯和米尔斯餐厅看起来仿佛是用从巴黎跳蚤市场上淘出来的东西装修的，比方说该餐厅里摇摇晃晃的小金属椅和磨掉了皮的家具布艺饰品。它与街道25号处的布兰迪图书馆隔街相望，这一私人俱乐部式的都会场所有着严格的规定（“与在任何图书馆一样，禁止喧哗或粗言秽语”）。
　　在这儿，不是城市的喧嚣而是安稳的街道生活使这里的人有着平等的处境，不管你是奇特的游客、穿着考究的居民、休息中的侍应还是从别的城镇过来的纽约人。一流餐厅之间不相上下，街东末尾、大道对面以保罗·蓝布朗特厨师而闻名的高登餐厅（西百老汇239号）和北摩尔街西端拐角处以安德鲁·卡梅里尼厨师而闻名的洛坎达·维尔迪餐厅（格林威治街377号）都是有着顶级厨师的餐厅。
　　特里贝克地区非官方市长罗伯特·德·尼罗占有部分股权、建在一个停车场旧址上的格林威治酒店已经成为街道的重磅之地，是奔驰经销商开早餐会报的地方，其复式套房也是电影制片人在北摩尔的长住据点。在那儿的复式套房里，透过斜斜的巨型玻璃窗，可以看到街道屋顶上如画般的风景。格林威治酒店的总经理有着一个浮华且美好的名字——菲利普·特鲁拉夫（编者注：“Philip”一名广为欧洲王室成员所用，而姓氏Truelove意为“真爱”）。他说：“酒店开张至今已有四年，唯一的变动是迎来送往的一批批客人。这里虽来往不息，却依旧保留一份安静。”
　　你可以说，北摩尔街居民得到了超值的服务。他们已经得到了8号云梯消防站，它因《捉鬼敢死队》系列电影而闻名，一举成为标志性的消防站。当车库门打开时，你可以看到室内墙壁上挂着电影首部曲的正宗纪念品。这里的居民也拥有建筑师弗兰克·盖里的原创作品。弗兰克·盖里曾在北摩尔街和哈德逊河西南拐角处的三宅一生商店做过室内设计。走近一些，你会发觉弯曲的钛片看起来像西班牙毕尔巴鄂古根海姆博物馆的书房。这里的居民还有公众艺术工程——“玻璃容器”，它是由格里曼尼萨·阿莫罗斯在2006年设计的光雕塑，陈列在北摩尔街54号拜耳大厦的大厅里。从街上看去，你能看到它在白天和晚上会不时出现不同的颜色和效果。居民们还有“丁香花”——他们自己的灯塔补给船。它是一艘造于1933年的蒸汽机船，现在停靠在哈德逊河公园25号码头的大型黑色橡胶脚座上，码头从北摩尔经沙滩排球场、草地赛场延伸至新泽西州。这艘前海岸巡逻队的船只现在已由非营利性机构“丁香花保护项目”管理，会在阵亡将士纪念日后开放甲板上下层，每周有几天下午免费对外开放。
　　与此同时，回到巴比餐馆，在这里一盘炒鸡蛋配烤面包的售价为17美元，他们甚至有婴儿车停放处。这片成直角线的空间刚刚上了一层新的油漆。
　　
　　
　　

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